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Needless to say, doing Holiday’s celebrated gardenia hair justice in The United States vs. Billie Holiday was top of mind for Daniels, Nieddu, and the hair team headed up by legendary pro Charles Gregory Ross, who died tragically from COVID-19 last April. “What I love the most about Billie’s signature gardenia look is that she turned a simple press-and-curl into a glamorous hairstyle,” explains hairstylist Stacie Merriman, who worked alongside Ross to meticulously design all of Day’s looks, creating custom wigs and styling her natural hair. To re-create Holiday’s floral updo, Merriman would typically prep Day’s hair with Chi heat protectant cream and castor oil–infused hair butter to “maintain the health of her sandy brown curls,” then blow-dry and flatiron her hair straight before using a one-inch curling iron to curl small sections from the nape upward to her hairline, which was smoothed down with edge control and pinned with bobby pins. “Lee was very specific about maintaining the authenticity of how Billie wore her hair, so I never strayed away from the reference photos when re-creating her looks,” says Merriman, adding that she also darkened Day’s lengths with black Joico Tint Shot, before sealing everything in with oil sheen and blasts of Oribe Superfine Hairspray.

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For the flowers, Nieddu sourced fresh blooms from a florist weekly, mostly white gardenias and cymbidium orchids. These were enhanced with white feathers as well as other synthetic flowers that were handmade for specific iconic looks. “Each day Andra would handpick three flowers to place in her hair,” explains Merriman. “Bobby pins were pinned crisscross over the stem and through the hair, while Andra held the flower in place to rest on her face below her hairline and above her brow.” And—voilà!

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