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Indeed, for sheer spectacle alone, it feels fitting that Mulan received one of its two nods for best costume design. With the budget topping $200 million, no expense was spared when it came to the gorgeously realized designs of costume designer Bina Daigeler. Whether it was the elaborate armor and battlewear sported by Liu Yifei in the titular role and her fellow fighters or the medieval Tang Dynasty–inspired robes worn for the courtly set pieces, the dazzling costuming served as an undisputed highlight of a film that otherwise proved divisive with critics. This year’s biggest wild card, meanwhile, was the nomination for Massimo Cantini Parrini’s work on Matteo Garrone’s surrealist, Italian-language retelling of Pinocchio, which was rewarded for its stunning visuals with a nod for best makeup and hairstyling too. It’s a deserving, if unexpected, nod: Garrone’s films have often flirted with flamboyant fashion, and with Pinocchio’s deep dive into the darker corners of the fairy-tale imagination, its celebration of pure fantasy clearly resonated with voters during a year where a dose of escapism was much needed.
Perhaps the most expected nod this year was Mank, which, with its retelling of the laborious process of Herman J. Mankiewicz’s journey to writing the script for Citizen Kane, was always going to feature heavily come awards season given its deep dive into classic Hollywood lore. It helped, though, that the drama came lavishly and thoughtfully costumed by designer Trish Summerville, whose decade-long working partnership with David Fincher has seen her become a trusted collaborator. That’s especially notable given Fincher’s notoriously exacting approach to constructing the visual worlds of his movies. With stars Amanda Seyfried, Lily Collins, and Tuppence Middleton all appearing in a never-ending series of glitzy draped gowns and delicate silk blouses—not to mention Seyfried’s showstopping majorette costume during a scene set at Hearst Castle—Summerville’s work also provided a welcome note of playfulness within the film’s overall more muted aesthetic.
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